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Umit SUBASI

Enzo


Ride Across Russia 10.000 km

Fri, Jun 15 2007 0:58
20,936 Okundu  

 Türkiye  Rusya
 

Entire riding days took 19 days and we have done around 10.500 km. We used one day in Vladivostok to pack and ship our bikes through railway . Some advices from Umit and route steps are at the bottom of the page.

Umit SUBASI
Born in Istanbul in 1967. Riding a GS 1200 Adventure. Scuba Dive Master, Karate, Aikido, OffRoad, Hunting, Eastern Studies and Photography are some of the hobbies.
Tuncay TEKDEMIR
Born in 1965. GS 1150 Rider. Paragliding, Motorcycling and Diving are the hobbies.

 

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 001 - 2007-05-26 10:25

Moscow


 

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 002 - 2007-05-26 10:27

Moscow

 

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 005 - 2007-05-26 16:28

Moscow

 

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 006 - 2007-05-26 17:34

On the way Between Moscow NNovgorod


 

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 007 - 2007-05-26 18:49

NNovgorod


 

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 008 - 2007-05-26 18:54

NNovgorod Lenin


 

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 009 - 2007-05-26 18:57

NNovgorod Lenin


 

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 010 - 2007-05-26 19:02

NNovgorod


 

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 011 - 2007-05-26 19:42

NNovgorod


 

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 012 - 2007-05-26 19:43

NNovgorod


 

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 013 - 2007-05-26 19:44

NNovgorod


 

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 014 - 2007-05-26 20:12

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 015 - 2007-05-26 20:12


Day 1 – 26th May 2007 – from Moscow to Nizhny Novgorod – 400 km
• Our starting point is the famous Red Square in Moscow.
• Friends and a few news agencies see us off with some interviews and we have a short chat with the police…
• When the police notices that one of our plates (Tuncay has Turkish number) is foreign, they try their usual tricks for getting out some money from us – without any success.
• We start the day in excellent weather and on a very nice road out of Moscow.
• Everything is still very clean and in good order and we still have no idea what awaits us in the later parts of this trip.
• The road is packed with weekend travelers who drive to their country-side houses outside the city (Dacha).
• Sort of a slalom between the cars and a few off-road sections to cut the slalom shorter.
• On our first fuel stop, Tuncay messes up the fuel pump and spills the fuel all over the gas station, his bike and some by-passers! What a scene!
• While driving out of the gas station, I am being attacked by some stray dogs who wanted to wish us good luck for the rest of the road.
• Nizhny Novgorod is one of the most beautiful cities in Russia! The river passes through the city and the riverside has nice spots, some restaurants and good view points.
• We stay at a nice hotel (Alexandrovsky Sad) with secure parking, have dinner at a restaurant on the riverside and visit the Z-Top Club in the evening (what a place – wow!)
• A good first day indeed.

 

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 016 - 2007-05-27 15:57

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 017 - 2007-05-27 16:04

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 018 - 2007-05-27 16:05


 

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 019 - 2007-05-27 16:08

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 020 - 2007-05-27 16:09

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 021 - 2007-05-27 19:38

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 022 - 2007-05-27 19:41

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 023 - 2007-05-27 19:41




Day 2 – 27th May 2007 – from N.Novgorod to Kazan – 430 km
• After a short tour in the historical city center, which is very nice by the way, we drive out of the city in a pleasant cruising mode, just with our T-shirts on and without the helmets (and at low speed). It is very hot!
• Some bad sections already start to appear. But it’s still asphalt and it’s just potholes that accompany us. We think it’s unpleasant, but if I would compare with the last section of our trip, this is still an excellent road. We just don’t know it yet!
• We make a short stop about 150km to Kazan at a road-side café. A strange place, no water, but full of beer and vodka. We have a little rest.
• The entrance to Kazan is beautiful and good spots for taking pictures.
• The Kremlin of Kazan and the central Mosque (the biggest and oldest in Russia) are fabulous.
• Dinner at a special American restaurant that specializes in burgers – McDonalds.
• We stay at the Hotel Suleiman Palace with secure parking.
• It is so hot that the asphalt where we had parked our bikes is melting and we can’t stop Tuncay’s bike from falling by itself. His left front signal is gone…

 

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 024 - 2007-05-28 09:01

Kazan morning


 

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 025 - 2007-05-28 13:38

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 026 - 2007-05-28 15:02

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 027 - 2007-05-28 15:03

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 028 - 2007-05-28 18:04

Between Izhevsk and Perm


 

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 029 - 2007-05-28 18:05

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 030 - 2007-05-28 18:07

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 031 - 2007-05-28 22:16

Perm


 

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 032 - 2007-05-28 23:04



Day 3 – 28th May 2007 – from Kazan to Perm – 660 km
• The road signalization is not always the best in Russia, and even for Russian speakers like us, it may get quite a trouble to find the right way out. This is where a GPS might be useful.
• Everybody we ask, incl. the traffic police points us out to a different direction and we lose about 1.5 hrs to get out of Kazan – what a shame!
• We enjoy an excellent road for the 1st hour and pass with very high speed.
• Here we go – our first experience with the police stop on the road. This costs us 500 rubles.
• The whole system is based on abuse of power and you don’t have much chances to argue in the middle of nowhere. The best is to play along and get out of there with no harm.
• We stop on a nice spot for a short break. It’s one of those few places where intercity traffic stops for breaks and it’s crowded with buses and people. Lots of dried fish (a typical snack in Russia) hanging around…
• Our first rain on the road and the consequent use of our rain protection suits.
• Tuncay starts with his long series of unfortunate events – he loses his wallet while driving! Some amount of money (not all, luckily and his credit cards) He is upset.
• Just shortly before Perm, another unfortunate event with Tuncay, when a bee enters his helmet. Tuncay gets a swollen face and we stop for a short treatment with our first-aid kit. (very useful).
• We pass through the town of Izhevsk, but no time to visit, must drive on!
• The road just before Perm is quite bad indeed, full of potholes, but the scenery is nice when you drive through deep pine forests, which compensates a little bit.
• We meet with an old friend of Tuncay in Perm who helps us out and hosts us for the dinner and breakfast the next day. Thank you, Oguzhan!
• We stay at the small Eva Hotel with secure parking. Really cute.

 

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 033 - 2007-05-29 10:59

Perm Propka


 

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 034 - 2007-05-29 13:40


 

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 035 - 2007-05-29 13:50

Harvest time in Russia


 

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 036 - 2007-05-29 13:53


Harvest time in Russia


 

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 037 - 2007-05-29 14:23

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 038 - 2007-05-29 14:58

Ekaterinburg, police motorcycle


 

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 039 - 2007-05-29 14:58

Ekaterinburg, police motorcycle


 

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 040 - 2007-05-29 20:10

Ekaterinburg


 

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 041 - 2007-05-29 21:26

Ekaterinburg



Day 4 – 29th May 2007 – from Perm to Yekaterinburg – 420 km
• Oguzhan drives with us to ensure a successful exit from the city so that we don’t lose our way out like in Kazan. Shortly after we split, we seem to have taken the wrong direction at a main intersection. This costs us 60km x 2 for getting back. Bad mood…
• This section is full of police all long. We have rarely seen so much traffic police anywhere else.
• And here we go again – our second experience with the police stop on the road in a small village when we get threatened with losing our driving licenses. This costs us again 500 rubles.
• The road cuts through lots of pine forests…it is nice.
• We meet with some bikers in this beautiful city. Yura and his friends help us out and drive with us for a city tour to show us the highlights of their nice city.
• The weather is rainy.
• We stay at the Domashniy Hotel with secure parking. What a rip-off!

 

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 042 - 2007-05-30 12:55

We met with Pavel on the Road to Tyumen


 

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 043 - 2007-05-30 13:49

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 044 - 2007-05-30 13:49

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 045 - 2007-05-30 18:44

Tyumen bikers


 

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 046 - 2007-05-30 19:24

Tyumen_bikers and us.


Day 5 – 30th May 2007 – from Yekaterinburg to Tyumen – 330 km
• This is one of our shortest rides, but since there is heavy rain today, the short distance is helpful.
• The temperature is low and we kind of freeze our Turkish asses off for 3 hrs.
• Tuncay notices that his bike is very low on engine-oil and we stop at a fuel station to top-up our oils. But they don’t have the viscosity we need, so Tuncay gives a call to his mechanic (in Turkey) for an advice on alternative viscosity. We’re all set and we also take some spare, just in case…
• A short stop for lunch and for warm-up on a cozy place on the road and we meet with Pasha who drives the other direction between the two cities. He passes us lots of contact names for Tyumen.
• Our ride gets dry and warmer after lunch.
• We meet with Pasha’s contacts at Tyumen and have dinner with them. Lots of bikers here.
• They tell us that there is another guy who drives Vladivostok-Moscow (the other way around) who is expected any moment to show up. Half an hour later, we meet with the Africa Twin and its rider and listen to his stories. He’s riding alone, a set of red eyes, and some weird stories – I honestly think he guy was high and he drives off after a short stop with us. Good luck!
• We stay in one of those old, Soviet hotel structures, the Hotel Vostok. It’s actually quite nice and very good value for money. Secure parking just on the backside of the hotel.

 

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 047 - 2007-05-31 08:45

Another Ural. We are definetly faster than it


 

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 048 - 2007-05-31 09:50

Standard view on the Siberian Road


 

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 049 - 2007-05-31 09:52

Last Photo with my Right BAG


 

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 050 - 2007-05-31 11:01

Between Tyumen and Omsk


 

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 051 - 2007-05-31 12:13

Between Tyumen and Omsk


 

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 052 - 2007-05-31 12:13

Between Tyumen and Omsk


 

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 053 - 2007-05-31 13:36

five star cafe between Tyumen and Omsk


 

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 054 - 2007-05-31 17:38


Omsk


 

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 055 - 2007-05-31 17:38

Omsk


 

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 056 - 2007-05-31 17:46

Krokodil from Omsk Bikers Club "Other Men"


 

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 057 - 2007-05-31 17:47

Omsk Krokodil and US


 

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 058 - 2007-05-31 17:47

Omsk Krokodil and US


 

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 059 - 2007-05-31 17:48

Omsk



 

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 060 - 2007-05-31 20:10

"Other Man" bike club was very friendly and helpful in Omsk. Thanks everybody especially Krokodil and Indian..


Day 6 – 31st May 2007 – from Tyumen to Omsk – 700 km
• A long day today, but the exit from Tyumen is very comfy and we get out pretty easy and save our precious time.
• Weather is dry, only 14C, but certainly acceptable.
• After a few 100 kms, we stop for a tea at a cute lake-side place.
• The road is generally nice, with a few exceptions. In any case, it is the usual, standard scenery where a straight road cuts through the forest and here is no exception. The only change is some lake-side driving which brings in some color.
• The unfortunate series of events for Tuncay continues – we notice on the road that one his side luggage boxes is missing – SHIT !
• We drive back about 45 km, no sign of the box. Some money and some dresses are gone.
• The entrance to Omsk center is very unclear. We lose time getting to the city and pick up contact with the names we got from the guys in Tyumen. Everybody sort of knows the other bikers in the next town, so we’re being passed from one hand to the other, which is quite helpful.
• We meet with Krokodil and Sasha (Maroz); really nice guys and nice bikes.
• They take us out for dinner and then for some club and don’t even let us pay ! Really hospitable and very fun people. Thank you again, Krokodil, Indian and Sascha!
• We stay at a small hotel outside the city (advice of bikers who took us there) with secure parking and Sauna.
• The decision is to enjoy also the Sauna at a late night session and we warm up our bones a bit.

 

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 061 - 2007-06-01 10:32

You need to drive 80km more if you want to eat


 

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 062 - 2007-06-01 11:47

On Siberian Roads


 

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 063 - 2007-06-01 11:48

On Siberian Roads


 

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 064 - 2007-06-01 12:21

Standard View on the Siberian Road


 

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 065 - 2007-06-01 15:21

Novosibirsk Dachas


 

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 066 - 2007-06-01 15:22

Novosibirsk Dachas


 

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 067 - 2007-06-01 15:23



 

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 068 - 2007-06-01 17:09

With Danone Team in NOVOSIBIRSK


Day 7 – 1st June 2007 – from Omsk to Novosibirsk – 660 km
• Another long day, but probably the nicest quality road on all this trip!
• Really outstanding road with long stretches which means that we pass with quite high speed!
• Weather is dry, but around 10C and cloudy. We ride in front of the rain that has a hard time catching us.
• No more police incidents from here onwards and in fact, we stop seeing the police which gets pretty rare towards Siberia.
• A lunch stop at 180 km to Novosibirsk at an excellent place with cozy atmosphere, outside seating and good food. The name of the place: “from dusk till dawn”. It kind of makes sense….
• My first and luckily only incident on the road happens today: the last thing I remember is looking to Tuncay on my rear mirror and the road in front of me was clear. But when I realize at a sudden what is in front of me is the backside of a big truck. I make a last-second maneuver and dust-off the trucks rear bumper. I think I fell asleep…
• We stay at the Naberezhnaya Hotel, good value for money and secure parking.

 

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 069 - 2007-06-02 07:55

Geographical Center of old USSR in Novosibirsk


 

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 070 - 2007-06-02 08:02

Novosibirsk


 

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 071 - 2007-06-02 08:03

Novosibirsk


 

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 072 - 2007-06-02 08:03

Novosibirsk


 

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 073 - 2007-06-02 08:04

Novosibirsk


 

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 074 - 2007-06-02 08:05

Novosibirsk


 

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 075 - 2007-06-02 08:05

Novosibirsk


 

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 076 - 2007-06-02 08:35

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 077 - 2007-06-02 11:09

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 078 - 2007-06-02 11:09

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 079 - 2007-06-02 11:13

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 080 - 2007-06-02 14:32

We still have some KM to Irkutsk


 

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 081 - 2007-06-02 15:15

End of Day8


 

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 082 - 2007-06-02 17:40

Our Hotel in Marinsk Tuncay


 

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 083 - 2007-06-02 17:40

Our Hotel in Marinsk Umit


 

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 084 - 2007-06-02 17:41

Our Hotel in Marinsk.


 

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 085 - 2007-06-02 17:43

Garden of the Hotel


 

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 086 - 2007-06-02 17:43

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 087 - 2007-06-02 17:46

Entrance of the Hotel


 

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 088 - 2007-06-02 17:47

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 089 - 2007-06-02 17:47

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 090 - 2007-06-02 17:49


Day 8 – 2nd June 2007 – from Novosibirsk to Mariinsk – 410 km
• Another rainy day and just 7C, that gives a real freezing start for the day.
• Siberia is really very beautiful and we enjoy one of our nicest sections during this day. The road is with lots of nice curves and we have a nice ride at a moderate speed, but stable.
• This area is very green, there are lots of hills and villages. It is quite a change of scenery after the usually boring roads until here.
• Tuncay has another event today – he spins off seriously during a take-over maneuver of a truck, not helped by the wet road and the strong wind. I see him in front of me how he bends a few times from one side to the other, but thankfully manages to keep his bike under control.
• We stop only once for fuel today and pass the nice city of Kemerovo, but no time to stop. As usual, we have to carry on with the day’s plan.
• There are many nice places to stop for a break just before getting to Kemerovo. I mean really nice, because it’s sort of mountain area, green and lots of cute, cozy places. Of course, we could not stop at any of those. By the way, also a few other possible resting places between Kemerovo and Mariinsk.
• There is only one hotel in this small Siberian town – the Gastinitsa (which means hotel in Russia). It’s small, cheap, clean and has secure parking. I can tell you, it will remind you the song “Hotel California”.

 

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 091 - 2007-06-03 03:37

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 092 - 2007-06-03 03:50

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 093 - 2007-06-03 04:00

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 094 - 2007-06-03 04:41

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 095 - 2007-06-03 04:42

Siberian cowboy


 

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 096 - 2007-06-03 04:42

Siberian cowboy


 

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 097 - 2007-06-03 07:17

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 098 - 2007-06-03 07:28


Day 9 – 3rd June 2007 – from Mariinsk to Krasnoyarsk – 410 km
• The first 100 kms are quite bad condition indeed. It sort of prepares you for the hell that awaits us further down our route. But it then improves after this section and becomes quite nice with lots of curves and different scenery.
• There are also sections where you can speed up if you like, which we did.
• The weather is between 12-18C, partly cloudy and allows a pleasant ride.
• The only BMW service on this road is in Krasnoyarsk. In fact, it is the only BMW service outside Moscow. Everything is on western standard, except the quality of the technical service, but including the bill they gave is for changing the oil, the filter, my tires and some general check-up. Unless you have an urging need, there is no need to stop here. It is very superficial and a big rip off.
• I now have the off-road tires on and it feels like driving a tank. The noise after a speed of 60-70km (especially beyond 100km) is unbearable and so is the occasional dancing that makes you very uncomfortable even on a smooth surface because it hits you as a surprise. We even checked the wheels a few times to see if the “great” BMW service forgot to tighten some screws, but it’s just the new tires.
• A good dinner at an Italian restaurant in this remote city, meeting a few friends and back to hotel.
• Overnight at the Hotel Sibir, a big one, but good value for money with secure parking.

 

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 099 - 2007-06-04 05:31

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 100 - 2007-06-04 05:31

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 101 - 2007-06-04 06:22

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 102 - 2007-06-04 08:36

Repairing on the road


 

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 103 - 2007-06-04 08:37

Repairing on the road


 

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 104 - 2007-06-04 09:44

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 105 - 2007-06-04 09:44

Latest Technology in Benzin


 

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 106 - 2007-06-04 13:27

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 107 - 2007-06-04 13:27

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 108 - 2007-06-04 13:28

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 109 - 2007-06-04 15:52

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 110 - 2007-06-04 16:00

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 111 - 2007-06-04 16:00

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 112 - 2007-06-04 17:29


Day 10 – 4th June 2007 – from Krasnoyarsk to Tulun – 660 km
• We leave pretty early for this long section, hoping that if we get there early, we could head on to Irkutsk (another 400km) and save a day. The reality turned out to be very different. Just read on.
• The weather was dry, sunny and warm at 20-25C, allowing a good start.
• The road started to get really BAD contrary to our expectations, slowing us down and creating the first real mechanical BREAK-DOWN.
• My rot-arm on the rear suspension (the fore-arm long piece that connects the chassis with the kardan) got a serious bend following a few real bad surprise potholes. Not to mention that I seem to have forgotten to adjust my suspension settings…my bad.
• We needed to dismantle the whole rear section and try to hammer it into shape. The problem with forged aluminium is that you have a little chance to do that. Not to mention that we were already 300 kms from the city in the middle of nowhere on a forest road.
• Our hammer turned out to be too light for this task and we had to stop some passing big trucks, asking for a heavy hammer. The piece eventually moved 1mm or 2, not touching the rear wheel anymore and allowing me to drive on at a low speed of 40-50km max. to the next town where we looked for help.
• You can find a so called “CTO” at most of the Russian towns, which is a place where there are lots of mechanical workshops and they literally can do anything. We managed to find “Argon” welding at the small town of Taishet and everything looked to be even stronger than before.
• The bad news is that the real BAD road started to get even WORSE. Very low speeds at those sections that cut us off from speeding and makes us swallow lots of road dust!
• For the first time, we had to travel at darkness on this bad, forest roads in the midst of a crazy truck traffic.
• It was 1 a.m. midnight when we arrived to Tulun.
• We stayed at the Centralnaya Hotel which is clean, cheap and comfy. There was no secure parking this time and we had to chain our bikes for the first time, leaving them in front of the hotel entrance. Luckily, they were still there at the next morning.

 

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 113 - 2007-06-05 05:14

Street Market in Tulun


 

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 114 - 2007-06-05 07:32

Cafe on the road before irkutsk


 

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 115 - 2007-06-05 07:32

Cafe on the road


 

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 116 - 2007-06-05 12:37

Irkutsk square


 

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 117 - 2007-06-05 13:16

Exit of Irkutsk


 

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 118 - 2007-06-05 14:38

Baikal view


 

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 119 - 2007-06-05 14:39

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 120 - 2007-06-05 14:40


Day 11 – 5th June 2007 – from Tulun to Irkutsk– 390 km (+ Bonus section of 175
km to Baikalsk) • Dry, sunny and warm weather at about 22C, allowing us a good start.
• We start with a short stop at a street market in Tulun, see the stands with different goods, veggies and fruits and make a few shots before we head on.
• The road is generally nice with the exception of the initial section, and asphalt is re-starting at Zima. There are a few nice spots for having a break or lunch at that point.
• We talk to some travelers on one of our stops and they give us lots of suggestions for hotels in Baikal area and the fearsome section after Chita. We shall see if they tell the truth.
• Nothing really extraordinary on this section and we arrive early to Irkutsk and make a short stop at the city center.
• Since we have the time advantage, we decide to carry on and get a Bonus from the next day’s section.
• The hope is that we arrive to Lake Baikal area, find a cozy small hotel at the lake side, have a Russian Banya and jump to the lake.
• The reality turns out to be slightly different as there are literally no places at all around this part of the lake. It is really very beautiful nature, but that is pretty much it. There is almost no infrastructure here at all.
• Following our disappointment, we drive on until the small town of Baikalsk and find a small hotel there. But this one is in the woods and there is nothing on the lakeside.
• We get the credit of 175 km as our Bonus, have a short dinner in the center at the only restaurant of this place and get a sleep at the Baikalsk Uyut Hotel, which is cheap, clean and has a secure parking.

 

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 121 - 2007-06-06 05:50

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 122 - 2007-06-06 05:50

Baikalsk


 

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 123 - 2007-06-06 08:24

River Before Ulan Ude.


 

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 124 - 2007-06-06 08:25

Before ulan ude


 

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 125 - 2007-06-06 08:34

Before ulan ude on the road


 

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 126 - 2007-06-06 08:35

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 127 - 2007-06-06 08:35

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 128 - 2007-06-06 09:16

Ulan ude square and Lenin


 

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 129 - 2007-06-06 09:16

Ulan ude square and Lenin


 

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 130 - 2007-06-06 09:16

Ulan ude square


 

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 131 - 2007-06-06 11:31

It happens sometimes


 

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 132 - 2007-06-06 11:47

Riverside around lake Baikal


 

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 133 - 2007-06-06 11:50

Riverside around lake Baikal


 

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 134 - 2007-06-06 11:51

Riverside around lake Baikal


 

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 135 - 2007-06-06 12:09

Riverside around lake Baikal


 

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 136 - 2007-06-06 14:06

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 137 - 2007-06-06 14:06

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 138 - 2007-06-06 16:06

Hotel Lobby


 

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 139 - 2007-06-06 16:06

Hotel receptionist


 

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 140 - 2007-06-06 16:06

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 141 - 2007-06-06 16:07

Hotel lobby


 

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 142 - 2007-06-06 16:07

Hotel entrance


 

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 143 - 2007-06-06 16:26

Hotel no star our room


 

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 144 - 2007-06-06 16:26

Hotel Bathroom


 

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 145 - 2007-06-06 16:27


Day 12 – 6th June 2007 – from Baikalsk to Ulan Ude and follow to PetrovksZabaikalsk – 530 km
• As mentioned, Lake Baikal area was a bit of a disappointment for us. However, we drive off with a dry, sunny weather of 30C and make a few nice stops on some riversides.
• I enjoy a small accident when I drop my bike at a almost stopping turn to a road-side section towards the river. No damage to anybody!
• The road to Ulan Ude is generally nice and we stop for lunch at Ulan Ude with a friend of Tuncay.
• Since this section was pretty short (305 km), we keep driving into the next day’s plan and decide to continue until the town of Petrovskzabaikalsk.
• This is a real small town, very wide spread over a set of small hills with lots of village houses. We have a hard time to find the center where we finally discover the one-and-only hotel of the town: the Gastinitsa.
• The hotel looks like a left-over from the 2nd world war and we hesitate to enter. At that moment, a police car pulls up and starts the usual conversation with us. It turns out the police is really nice and they warn us that this is not a very safe town and that we may not want to leave our bikes here in front of the hotel, where there is no guarded parking whatsoever. They invite us to the police station and to use their garage and give us even a lift back to the hotel with the police car. Next morning, they see us off very friendly and no expectations whatsoever! In this remote part of the country, we have learned that the police can also be very nice.
• By the way, the hotel also turns out to be very clean inside and cheap. There’s just no hot water, but there’s cold beer. That sounded as a good deal to us after the long day.

 

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 146 - 2007-06-07 04:17

Gaffur from Cita


 

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 147 - 2007-06-07 04:39

Break close to Cita


 

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 148 - 2007-06-07 04:49

Umit on the road


 

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 149 - 2007-06-07 04:51

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 150 - 2007-06-07 06:05

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 153 - 2007-06-07 06:12

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 154 - 2007-06-07 07:03

Police check point


 

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 155 - 2007-06-07 07:17

Police check point


 

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 156 - 2007-06-07 07:51

Spetnats


 

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 157 - 2007-06-07 07:53

Spetnats


 

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 158 - 2007-06-07 08:21

Endless road Tayga


 

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 159 - 2007-06-07 08:21

Endless road Tayga


 

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 160 - 2007-06-07 08:58

Finally Chita - This is "the start of hell"


 

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 161 - 2007-06-07 09:09

Cita


 

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 162 - 2007-06-07 09:12

Cita


 

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 163 - 2007-06-07 09:21

Cita


Day 13 – 7th June 2007 – from PetrovksZabaikalsk to Chita – 450 km
• Getting closer to Project Amur and the real stuff!
• The police was kind enough to explain us out of the town.
• Our expectations were that we were going to have a difficult ride due to worsening road conditions and we therefore left quite early.
• Weather was relatively cool in the morning and cloudy, but dry. We feared for rain on gravel, however it eventually got very warm and sunny with 27C.
• The road conditions turned out to be far better than our expectations, especially in the 2nd half. Lots of long stretches where we increased our speed, but occasionally became victims of surprising bumps that has put quite a bit of strain on our suspensions.
• We have reached Chita already at 15.00 hrs thanks to early departure and better than expected road conditions.
• Our hotel is Panama City which was one of the best places we have stayed.

 

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 164 - 2007-06-08 05:25

Hell... It was 2.000 km off-road


 

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 165 - 2007-06-08 05:27

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 188 - 2007-06-08 15:25

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 189 - 2007-06-08 15:26


Day 14 – 8th June 2007 – from Chita to Mogocha – 630 km
• The highway to hell ! The real Taiga starts out there and so is the Project Amur with 2165 km between Chita and Khabarovsk.
• We left at a dry and sunny weather, but quite cold in the morning with 7C, eventually raising to 22C during the day.
• The first 100 km are really nice with lots of curves and good surface conditions where you can drive at lovely speeds through the curves. It is quite nice to a very misleading extent because the Project Amur starts a surprise party at a sudden when the asphalt road just disappears.
• We stopped for a short break at 110 km at a road-side café, talking to some by passers and getting road info in terms of what awaits us ahead.
• The bad news is that we’re going to have a real hard time until Mogocha and that it eventually becomes more acceptable after that. We shall see!
• The gravel starts at a sudden and the surface is relatively flat with the exception of numerous detours along the way where you drive through holes, cracks, bumps, road construction area, half bridges and any sort of unexpected surface condition that keeps changing all at a sudden.
• It is mostly loose gravel which makes the balance control a nightmare. We finally start driving only standing because otherwise you have no chance of getting through without falling (unless you drive 10-20 km an hour).
• Both of us made the experience of risking to fall seriously due to road conditions.
• On two occasions, I have lost control to such an extent where the bike started dancing at angles of 45-50 degrees from one side to the other and it felt like some other force just gave me a hand and put the bike back on normal driving angle. It was either mysterious or pure luck.
• A section of about 30 km of very freshly spilled and perfectly loose (like sand) gravel made a funny time to both of us. It takes lots of focus and muscle power to keep our 450kg beasts on the correct balance.
• Tuncay started falling. The first was relatively serious, but luckily he was not hurt. A wrong choice of the surface of on the driving line brings you down very easily. The second fall was at a low speed, so he could get up very quickly.
• It is interesting that one gets a sort of a super-power at those moments and that you have the energy of lifting the 350kg from the ground. Is it adrenalin, is it testosterone, who knows?
• Counting the kms does not really help because they do not seem to finish. This section is so difficult that you have to manage it first mentally and then physically; otherwise you won’t get through. I have personally started to count the hours as opposed to kms, just to make it easier in my mind. Roughly 50 kms an hour is quite an achievement.
• It got very late and we still had 69kms left. Tuncay was exhausted and started to lose his focus a bit. Riding behind me at some moment, he couldn’t avoid the accident when I had to break for a surprise crack on the road, and being too close behind me, the crash was unavoidable. Tuncay flew about 2-3 m from his bike and with a roll on his shoulder, but thankfully nothing happened to him. My right-side metal box was destroyed, but we eventually managed to fix it with the tools we had, if we only could resist the mosquito attacks at that moment. The Siberian mossies are big bunch of nasties, I can tell you!
• In overall, the road conditions were probably the worst in this section and there is not much places to stop or to fuel. Certainly no motels etc. and just one or two cafes and fuel stations.
• The longest section with “nothing” was about 250km on this part. It is the middle of fucking nowhere.
• We made it close to midnight to Mogocha, which is a small town in the middle of thick forest. It is about 8-9kms to the main road (let us be polite and call it a road).
• The Hotel Zahadi was cozy and clean, cheap and with secure parking at their horse stall. It also turned out to be the center-point of nightlife in this remote Siberian village where young people get drunk with beer and mess up.

 

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 190 - 2007-06-09 01:51

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 191 - 2007-06-09 01:51

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 192 - 2007-06-09 07:46

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 193 - 2007-06-09 09:59

Mogocha-Magdagachi


 

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 196 - 2007-06-09 10:00

Mogocha-Magdagachi


 

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 197 - 2007-06-09 12:11

easy tofind direction


 

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 198 - 2007-06-09 12:11

easy tofind direction


 

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 199 - 2007-06-09 12:54

Dusty man


 

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 200 - 2007-06-09 12:54

Dusty


 

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 201 - 2007-06-09 12:55

Dusty


 

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 202 - 2007-06-09 12:55

Dusty


 

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 203 - 2007-06-09 12:56

Scenery after Mogocha


 

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 204 - 2007-06-09 12:56


Scenery after Mogocha


Day 15 – 9th June 2007 – from Mogocha to Magdagachi – 510 km
• The off-road fun goes on!
• We left at wet weather with about 10C, eventually getting dry and cloudy and sunny towards the evening.
• If you hit the rain on that part of the road, you are pretty much out of business.
• We stopped for a coffee at the main road intersection (the only place you could possibly stop in that area) before heading off for the day.
• The truck drivers told us that somebody got shot down the road early morning for a robbery attempt and that they were waiting for the police to come etc. This gave us quite an upset stomach, but we had no choice other than driving on. It’s not really a point where you can cut a trip in the middle of a forest road with not much civilization around you for some other 100’s of kms.
• I just made sure that my knife was easily accessible and we hit the gas.
• This section is equally unpleasant, but with much more flat sections rather than holes, bumps, cracks etc. so you can really speed up at about 100km/hr at standing position, unless you have more adrenalin in your blood and you want to go faster and fall harder.
• The speed helped us to close some distances relatively faster, but there are lots of construction points in this area and you have to slow down dramatically to go through those sections. Some of them can be real longish and bore you to death, but you need to hang on.
• Tuncay fell again at one of these construction sites, with no serious harm to either him or his bike.
• There are big areas where they construct huge intersections and needless to say that there are no indications. We really got lost at some moment, not knowing which way to take, because even with the compass or GPS you can’t really help yourself out as there are many detours and you have to make sure you take the correct path.
• The only help at those moments are the small convoys of cars that come from the opposite direction, usually with a crazy speed and dust cloud behind them, and you can then make up which way is right.
• Those are the Jap cars that are cheaper on that part of Russia and are being driven to bigger cities in the western part of Siberia like Irkutsk or Novosibirisk to their new owners. It is not the best job of being a driver on those cars, but it seems that many are ready to do it for about 1.500-2.000usd.
• Again, there are very few places to stop and to fuel here and it has to be planned extremely well, unless you want to camp in the middle of fucking nowhere hoping for some gas to rain from the sky.
• We drove around the town of Skorovodino as we still had some 180km to be finished. No time to see the intersection to the northern road towards Yakutsk and Magadan.
• We made it at a relatively reasonable time to the town and managed to discover the one-and-only (as usual) hotel of this tiny town – the Gastinitsa.
• Our room was a Suite, no hot water though, but quite comfy to make a picnic at the entrance area. We figured that we’re probably not going to need all the food supplies we had with us for the rainy days on the Taiga if we had to camp somewhere or so. We were getting close to civilization.
• A funny and drunk Russian man at the reception was amazed from our trip and told us the only story he knew about bikers - how a French biker lost his life on a strong curve on the road to Vladivostok and that his grave was still there. May he rest in peace. We were really cheered up talking to this guy.
• Again, no secure parking here and we decided to go to the police station. I told our story and the officer on duty happily accepted our request of using their parking lot for the night. We walked back to the hotel which was quite close.

 

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 205 - 2007-06-10 01:55

Lux hotel room in Magdagachi


 

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 206 - 2007-06-10 01:58

View from hotel room in Magdagachi


 

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 207 - 2007-06-10 04:14

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 208 - 2007-06-10 04:17

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 209 - 2007-06-10 12:33

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Day 16 – 10th June 2007 – from Magdagachi to Blagoveshensk – 520 km
• We went to the police station to pick up our iron horses.
• The police was very friendly, all the officers at the station watched us and our bikes with great interest, giving us a warm bye-bye by dedicating one of their duty cars to escort us out of town. Wow, really great service and hospitality!
• We hit the road with good weather today, dry and warm.
• Looks like Tuncay continued his unfortunate series of events and our logbook says that he fell again! But after so many incidents, there are no details anymore, just that he fell again and that he is OK. This is now a daily event.
• We find a cozy place to stop for a break and lunch. Lots of Jap cars here on their way to their new owners. We wonder how they sell these cars after making the harsh trip on these roads.
• Sort of 60-70 kms after the break, I figure out that his right-side box is not anymore where it used to be. The provisional fixing system seems not to have resisted the friendly surface conditions. A short search of 20 kms backwards with no success, and we decide that the box became an integral part of the Taiga.
• Only dirty laundry, the first-aid kit and some other stuff that we can live without at this stage, but the 2.500$ worth professional camera with the best pictures taken during the trip tell us bye-bye. I am very upset about the camera and the pictures…
• These off-road sections are very much varying in terms of the speed you can make and the surface types. There is everything from sand to gravel, but no asphalt of course.
• Because of the heat and the mental hit you get riding so long on those conditions, you start to have those hallucinations at some moment and start to see the asphalt just a few hundred meters away. It is just an illusion.
• The road becomes better after the first 250 kms. Which is basically until the town of Shimanovsk.
• We want to kiss the asphalt and continue to drive with great joy towards the border city of Blagoveshensk.
• After passing through Svobodny, the road between these two cities is really one of the most beautiful sections we have made on our trip. It goes along the hillside on your right-side, with lots of curves and almost no bad surprises, with the exception of a few very short “sand” sections.
• Again, not many places to stop on this part of the road, nor for a break nor for fuel…
• As usual, we drive straight towards the city center for looking for a place to stay. This is a big city and you can feel the difference. We keep driving until the road ends up on the riverside and we can see the big buildings on the other side of the river. We’re pretty sure that this is the city center and we want to get there. When I ask the question to the taxi driver standing by, we are told that this is actually “China” and that the river Amur is splitting the two countries here. We arrived until the Chinese border!
• We hook up with the local bike club and they give us a warm welcome. Tuncay needs a repair on his front suspension and guess what, they have their own workshop and this is not a problem at all.
• They are really nice and fun people, very helpful and take us around the city and then to dinner and finally until the hotel.
• We stay at the Hotel Druzhba, a decent place with good value for money and our bikes are left at the security of the local bike club.
• We can finally have a shower after 3 days of extreme Taiga.

 

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 210 - 2007-06-11 03:41

This is Chinese town HAYHE how it look s like from Blagovesensk. It only other side of the river and you can see the people walking on the streets. During the winter this river is Frozen and people just walk on the Border.. When we arrived there we thought this part is the center of Blagovesensk..


 

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 211 - 2007-06-11 03:54

Russia - China Border stone


 

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 212 - 2007-06-11 03:55

Russia - China Border Guard tower


 

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 213 - 2007-06-11 03:55

China from Russia


 

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 214 - 2007-06-11 05:07

Repair of Amortisor - Blagovesenk


 

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 215 - 2007-06-11 05:33

Blagoveshensk (Repairs at the bike club)


 

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 216 - 2007-06-11 05:36

Dirt Bike


 

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 217 - 2007-06-11 05:57

Big thanks to Ivan for helping me to fix my Suspensions. Thanks god I had the O rings with me to fix it. I also send Big Thanks to SAFFET USTA from Istanbul for his Technical training which helped me to fix the problem ther..


 

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 218 - 2007-06-11 06:32

Blagovesenk Bikers


 

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 219 - 2007-06-11 07:00

Blagovesenk Bikers


 

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 220 - 2007-06-11 07:05

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 221 - 2007-06-11 07:06

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Thanks to Pasha and his friends. We had good time and very good support from them. It was so kind that they ride with us 200KM to show the Road.


Day 17 – 11th June 2007 – from Blagoveshensk to Birobidzhan – 510 km
• We start with the repairs in the morning. They fix Tuncay’s bike up and we go for a clean-up of our bikes which are not very recognizable at that stage.
• Four of the local bikers decide to drive with us and we’re headed to our next destination. Shortly after our departure (30-40 kms), Tuncay discovers that his problem continues. The front suspension still leaks oil and needs to be dismantled and fixed back to its place again. This costs us couple of hours at a road-side resting place with a small café and some repair workshops.
• Back to the road, but 3 other people with us for another 200 kms. This is really nice of them, but they drive so slowly that I can hardly keep my eyes open. Another valuable 1-2 hours are lost, but we have made new friends.
• We were told that this part of the road is already OK and that we should not have any issues with the exception of 20km of very bad road. This turns out to be the following : 20+20+25+20+40 kms.
• After having driven off-road for so long, it’s maybe not much of a distance really, and also because it’s an alternating mixture of asphalt and the bad sections, but it just puts a big strain on your mind to deal with it!
• Tuncay blows his tire on this part, about 85 kms to Birobidzhan and we have to stop at a tire-repair shop. This costs us some more time and it’s already dark when we still have to drive on the remaining distance.
• The road has still some bad sections and Tuncay doesn’t really want to speed up much in the darkness. It is about midnight when we arrive to this remote city instead of making it to Khabarovsk today.
• We stop for fuel just before entering the town and get attacked by a massive group of flying sunflower seeds (this is how the nasty Siberian flies look like). Thanks to OFF repellent and some dancing moves, we can keep them at large and hit the gas as fast as we can. A few of these nasty bastards were still on Tuncay’s clothes the next morning.
• The technical issues kept us behind today, but we’re happy that everything could be fixed and we have no serious problem whatsoever. We go for a late-night Sauna just before the sleep.

 

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 223 - 2007-06-12 04:58

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 229 - 2007-06-12 07:18

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 230 - 2007-06-12 07:24

Khabarovsk


 

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 231 - 2007-06-12 07:24

Khabarovsk


 

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 232 - 2007-06-12 07:33

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 233 - 2007-06-12 07:34

We are at the best spot to see the Habarovsk view. (only bikers knows this spot)


 

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 234 - 2007-06-12 07:36

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 274 - 2007-06-12 14:27

This is a real dirt bike in the city.. My bike already washed a day ago..


 

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 275 - 2007-06-12 14:27

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 276 - 2007-06-12 14:27

Our Biker friends took lots of photos with their nice cameras on Habarovsk streets. So we had a chance having some photos during the ride..


 

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 277 - 2007-06-12 14:28

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 281 - 2007-06-12 14:33

We had plenty of photos in Habarovsk


 

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 282 - 2007-06-12 14:36

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Day 18 – 12th June 2007 – from Birobidzhan to Khabarovsk – 180 km
• This is our shortest section ever on all this trip. We leave late and arrive early to this big city of the Far East.
• A very good weather accompanies us on this part until Khabarovsk, when it gets just a little wet.
• Some friends together with other bikers from the town meet us on the road about -40 km and we keep driving together until the city.
• On our road towards the city, we cross the longest bridge of Russia, spanning 6kms over the river of Amur. What a massive landmark !
• Our daily event repeats here once again and Tuncay falls when taking some pictures at the entrance of the town.
• A big city tour with the biker group, lots of photos, some rest and chat at a café make us feel welcome here.
• Our friends have already arranged the hotel for us. It is a small and cozy place, Hotel Ogden with its guarded parking.
• We have a nice dinner in one of the posh places in the city (The Gallery), probably well deserved after making it back to the civilization.
• Project Amur is finally over!

 

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 283 - 2007-06-13 04:11

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 284 - 2007-06-13 08:29

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 285 - 2007-06-13 12:17

This Tires were Brand new when I started from Moscow. Indeed After Krasnayarsk we had 2000 KM never ending offroad..Half without any roads on the rocks and big holes and other half was on road work --construction-- on Gravel..(project AMUR) These combination of the road for 200km erased all the patterns of the tires quickly.. We were lucky to finish this trip with only one set of Tires..


 

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 286 - 2007-06-13 12:19

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 287 - 2007-06-13 12:20

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 288 - 2007-06-13 12:24

arrived to Vladivostok at the end of 19 days ride


 

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 289 - 2007-06-13 14:39

Thanks to Umits contacts for their help in Vladivostok.


 

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 290 - 2007-06-13 14:39

Finally we are there and enjoying the view and accomplishment. Nice weather.. We only need Cold beer and than sleep.


 

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 291 - 2007-06-13 14:39

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 292 - 2007-06-13 14:40

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Day 19 – 13th June 2007 – from Khabarovsk to Vladivostok – 770 km
• One of the longest sections of our trips is our last day! It kind of feels sad to know that we won’t be riding again for some time.
• We drive through this section under nice weather conditions and with relatively high speeds at most parts.
• As if the Project Amur wanted to remind itself to us before we came to the end, there are still a few, but short sections of quite bad road where construction works go on. That doesn’t bother us anymore at this point!
• A few short stops on the road, incl. a lunch stop at Dalnerechensk intersection at a decent place.
• Some friends together with a few bikers give us a nice welcome party on the roadside at the entrance of Vladivostok!
• There is Champagne, flags, cameras and big joy here! At the same time, hard to believe that this is the end station.
• We make a city tour, make lots of photos on the ocean-side and get our bikes cleaned up.
• Vladivostok is a beautiful city, a typical harbor with all its charm and mess at the same time. It reminded me to the Russian version of the Middle East somehow.
• Hotel Vladivostok is our last stop, a very nice place with parking and everything else.
• We celebrate our achievement by visiting a real Russian Banya, with good Russian food, Vodka, get a good clean-up and warm up our bones that are stressed after the shaking of 10.000 kms.
• Our bikes are ready to be shipped with the Russian Railways the next day, where they do all the packing and everything else needed. Our Aeroflot tickets back to Moscow are booked, too.
• WE MADE IT !!!!!

 

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 293 - 2007-06-14 03:36

VLADIVOSTOK (View from the hotel)


 

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 294 - 2007-06-14 03:37

VLADIVOSTOK (End station)


 

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 295 - 2007-06-14 07:08

End of the trip. It was so diffcult to find the place and organize all shipment. Thanks to local contacts of Umit. We managed to PACK the Bike for 8 day travel by train. Bikes also needs some rest...


 

 @
 296 - 2007-06-14 07:08

Packing for the train


 

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 297 - 2007-06-14 07:58

Packing for the train


 

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 298 - 2007-06-14 14:42

Vladivostok-Sunset (The end of it)



A piece of advice:
Doing 10.000kms straight at one shot on a motorbike in an unknown territory is not an easy task, especially if this includes about 2.000kms of the worst possible off-road in inhospitable territories. This list includes some of the suggestions we could make, incl. lots of learnings we have made.
  • If you have never driven long range endurance driving before, make sure you do your homework well before you head off. It requires lots of planning and preparation, incl. physical. This will avoid disappointments of any form.
  • Do not under-estimate the off-road and the off-civilization conditions.
  • Make sure you know your driving partners really well and that your driving styles match. Moreover, spending time on travels is a different thing than a usual acquaintance. This is much more valid if you go together into extreme conditions.
  • Any technical experience and knowledge will help.
  • Be familiar with the language and the culture of the country you plan to travel.
  • Plan, plan and plan again. It saves the hassle down the road.
  • Prepare, prepare and prepare. You can’t possibly imagine how a good preparation will be helpful on the most unexpected situations.
  • Ride your plan, unless you have very compelling reasons not to do so.
  • If you are in Russia, avoid the police as much as you can. There are very few occasions where you can find them being of any use. Do not argue with them, especially on road stops, checks, speed controls etc. You have no chance.
  • Keep low profile at all times. Showing off usually brings trouble.
  • Do not fall asleep while driving.
  • Check your bike visually and as necessary before every departure. There can be very obvious problems that you would not expect, but easy to discover if you just look at them.
  • Have a lead drive in your group and change your lead at every 20-50 kms or simply according to your agreement.
  • Agree on a driving formation (which might be different according to surface conditions) and stick to it.
  • Fill-up frequently, especially if you are not bloody sure about the next gas station.
  • Do not over-estimate the technical capabilities of your bike.
  • Do your trips from East to West.
  • Plan your clothes for ranges between 0C and 35C, and in layers.
  • You may want to use GPS for the cities e.g. exit from the cities. It will not be of much use other than that, though. A good road atlas is always the best friend.







Yayınlanış Tarihi Jun 15 2007, 12:58 AM Yayınlayan Umit SUBASI

Yorumlar

 

cem üçerler Dediki :

Elinize sağlık ,gayetle güzel olmuş, biz sizden sonra gittik keşke haberimiz olsaydı , bizim seyahatimiz daha güzel oludu.

January 31, 2008 8:37 PM
 

Ergun DEMIRER Dediki :

I also send Big Thanks to SAFFET USTA from Istanbul for his Technical training which helped me to fix the problem ther..

I've never knew SAFFET USTA gives technical traning in other language than Turkish !!!  Good for him :)))

June 21, 2008 8:37 PM
 

Ozgur Ercelik Dediki :

bravo. ne cesaret.

December 3, 2008 4:57 PM
 

Subasi village | Shopalotzstore Dediki :

PingBack gönderen Subasi village | Shopalotzstore

October 27, 2012 4:50 PM
 

Umit SUBASI Dediki :

(Bu gezi suresince bulundugum noktayi harita uzerinde canli bu linkden izleyebilirsiniz ) Genel 2007

September 22, 2013 2:51 AM
 

Continue Dediki :

3 - Enzo

October 29, 2014 2:43 AM

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About Umit SUBASI

Istanbul 1967 dogumluyum. BMW 1200GS Adventure kullaniyorum. Motor haricinde, her turlu outdoor aktivite, Scuba Dalis, Karate, Aikido, OffRoad, Avcilik, Dogu kulturleri ve fotografcilik hobilerim arasinda. Bir ara THKda parasute de bulasmistim. Ilk motor tecrubem Jawasaki, 25 yildan fazla oldu, ama esas son 15 yildir yogun olarak kullaniyorum. Cagiva Grand Canyon ile cok km yuttuk. Ozellikle Italya ve Romanyada cok turladim. Rusya gecisimiz ise ilk gercek dayaniklilik tecrubem oldu. Ben o yolu aslinda 4x4 ile gecmek isterken motor ile gitme firsati olunca benim icin fazla farketmedi. Iyi ki de yapmisiz. Gozu yiyen herkese tavsiye ederim.
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